Archive for the ‘food’ Category

The end of organic piety?

Tuesday, January 12th, 2010

The other night Jake and I had dinner with our farmer friends Brendan and Susan.  Susan, a fantastic cook, roasted a chicken from their own flock of broilers (using a recipe from The Barefoot Contessa, so you know it was good). The salad came from greens they grow themselves. The garlic mayonnaise came from their own eggs.  The meal was pretty much as “farm to table” as it gets, but neither Brendan or Susan felt compelled to highlight that fact to their guests. Neither felt the need to call out their gustatory purity or proselytize about the sanctity of locally-procured food.  For them, it was just….dinner. A delicious dinner, but  IT WAS JUST DINNER.

I got to thinking about this later and thought how refreshing. To prattle on about the moral superiority and nutritional piety that comes from  eating organic soy nuts over Triscuits has become so very trite and cliche. Everyone’s a locavore now! We get it! The eggs are free-range! The meat in the freezer is from a farmer down the road! The fish is sustainably caught! Understood!  Here’s a gold star! Here’s a feather from a free range bird to stick in your hemp-fiber cap.

I’d like to think we have transcended this tired discourse. Can we please go back to just eating dinner without verbally frothing all over it?  (I include myself in this lament.)

Jerky galore

Saturday, January 9th, 2010

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As I write this, I’m wearing my insulated Carharrt overalls over ultra-thick thermal underwear and a pair of fur-lined grandma slippers. My hair is in braided pigtails.  I’ve been making jerky all morning. I ate jerky for breakfast. There’s something distinctly redneck about this picture. Hence I shan’t show one.

But I will proudly show the jerky I’ve made so far:

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Spicy Tabasco Habanero

That new Food Saver we bought is turning out to be quite handy. It sucks all the air out of the baggies and should keep the jerky fresh for an entire year.  So Pa and I can stock the bunker!

Lime Soy Sauce Red Pepper, courtesy of Bobby Flay

Lime Soy Sauce Red Pepper, courtesy of Bobby Flay

I’ve got a third batch marinating now….I’m calling it Cuban Citrus. It smells divine. Tomorrow, I make Chipotle Lime! The day after that, Bourbon Bonanza!! I’m thinking a North Africa-inspired Harissa marinade might be nice as well!!!

I’ve gone jerk-nuts!!!!

How to make deer jerky

Wednesday, January 6th, 2010

Our hunting-mad neighbors Sam and Sandra — who I swear must take down a small battalion of furry, four-legged creatures each season — went out and shot us two deer. TWO DEER. Which means only one thing, friends: It’s jerky time at our house!!

I love venison jerky. It is, I think, a perfect protein. I’d much prefer tearing into a piece of jerky over a package of processed crackers any day. Does admitting this make me sound like a cracker? Mmm, yes. But I put jerky right up there with smoked sausage, my other favorite succulent foodstuff.

How we make jerky:

First, Jake helped Sam butcher the deer. Sam is an expert butcher. Jake is a butchering neophyte. He can barely cut his own hair and he has a buzz cut! (Ha ha! That’s a joke, sweetie. And with my current botched ‘do, I’m not exactly one to talk) Seriously, Jake might have accidentally discarded the tenderloins had it not been for Sam’s careful tutelage.

Then Jake brought over what felt like 200 pounds of steaks and cuts to our house, where we proceeded to slice the cuts into very thin strips using our other neighbors Bill and Ellen’s meat slicer (processing deer is serious business around here; in the country, meat slicers are as ubiquitous as toasters.)

One of many trays of deer meat, luscious deer meat

One of many trays of deer meat, luscious deer meat

The jerkying took place did in our mud room-slash-distillery-slash-laundry room-slash-grotto gateway-slash-butchery. We don’t, for reasons too boring to go into, heat this room. Last night it was 15 degrees. Ergo, the room was freezing. It truly felt like a meat locker! We both donned our insulated Carharrt overalls and proceeded to slice every last cut of deer reserved for jerky into strips, roughly 20-40 pounds in all?  By the end of it, we were both close to succumbing to hypothermia, the cutting table was covered with muck and meat, but we had bowl after glorious bowl of this:

Doesn't it look appetizing? Not.

Doesn't it look appetizing? Not.

Making jerky is a little like canning in that it can be a time sensitive operation; once you start the process, you can’t stop until the very end or risk spoiling the meat, and you can only work in batches.

I took the contents of this bowl, which weighed roughly 8 pounds, dumped them in an extra large ziploc bag and covered it with my favorite spicy jerky marinade:

- 1 1/2 cups soy sauce

- 3/4 cup lime juice

- 1/2 cup vinegar

- 1/4 to a 1/2 cup crushed red peppers (I like it hot!)

- 3 teaspoons garlic powder

Smoosh it all around until all the deer pieces are completely coated, seal the bag and refrigerate for 24 hours.

We stored the remaining unmarinated jerky meat in freezer bags, then used our new $170 FoodSaver vacuum sealer to suck the air out of all the bags, and stashed them all in the freezer. This way, I can make jerky at my leisure, instead of having to make it all at once like I did last year.

Tonight I’ll remove the jerky pieces from the marinade and begin the dehydration process using our Nesco dehydrator.  [Small interruption: Never in my wildest dreams did I think I'd be the kind of person to own both a vacuum sealer and a food dehydrator?!?!!] Sometime around 2 am tonight, the drying pieces of meat should look something like what you see below, but they won’t be fully dried until mid-morning tomorrow.

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I already know what I’m having for breakfast: Jerky-n-eggs!

Will keep you posted.

Who said boiling eggs was for idiots?

Thursday, November 19th, 2009

Our chickens are dropping eggs like Miley Cyrus drops hot tracks.  (Okay, bad joke, seeing how Miley Cyrus might just be the antichrist, and all)

This morning I collected 16 eggs! Sixteen eggs! I’ve already got 6 cartons of those delectable white orbs in my refrigerator, not quite sure what to do with them, though I’m sure some will be donated to the next humans I see.

So the subject of eggs has been front and center in my mind lately.  I’ve been making lots of egg salad, poached eggs, eggs on toast…..and I’ve been wondering….what is THE best way to boil an egg?

The problem with boiling eggs, of course, is that it’s impossible to see how they’re cooking in their shell. Often the eggs are overcooked, with rubbery whites and chalky yolks, or they’re undone, with slimy whites and runny yolks.   And sometimes the rapidly boiling water causes the eggs to crack before they’re fully cooked, leaving a trail of slimy white membrane in the boiling water.

So after extensive field testing over the past two weeks or so, I have discovered that the best way to boil an egg* — both for taste and peeling technique — is to:

- place eggs in a sauce pan and cover by an inch of water

- bring the water to a boil

- once the water boils, turn off the heat. Cover the pan and allow the eggs to cook by residual heat for 10 minutes (no rattling eggs means no cracked eggs)

- transfer the eggs to an ice-water bath with a slotted spoon and allow to sit for 5 minutes

-  remove an egg and squeeze it gently in your hand to crack the shell in several places

- begin peeling from the air-pocket (wider) end. The shell should come off in spiral strips

- eat. yum. good.

* adapted from Cook’s Illustrated with a technique suggestion from me

Scenes from the market

Tuesday, October 27th, 2009

The New Amsterdam Market is a monthly outdoor market featuring goods from New York’s top local food makers. Hanging out here is like going to a fancy all you can eat buffet — free samples are everywhere. Come hungry.  The next market, which is located at South Street Seaport, is slated for November 22.  If you plan to be in NYC that day, don’t miss it.

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Roasted pear goat cheese tart, served with fried sage. Kelly sold out of these in a couple of hours.

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Her homemade crackers.

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Brooklyn pride.

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Some people, though not a lot, sold vegetables.

Farming goes uptown

Saturday, October 24th, 2009
A tractor is loaded up with ramps from Paisley Farm.  Photo credit: Paisley Farm

A tractor is loaded up with ramps from Paisley Farm. Photo credit: Paisley Farm

So I’ve been in New York City all week working on my canning cookbook, published by Rodale (due summer 2010!) with  chef/collaborator Kelly Geary, owner of Sweet Deliverance NYC.

As part of the book, I’ve been interviewing a few farmers and growers.  Kelly went ahead and arranged for me to meet her farmers — the people who supply her catering/CSA business with all its vegetables — husband and wife team Mike Kokas and Jan Greer of Paisley Farm, located in the Hudson Valley of upstate New York.

Mike and Jan requested we meet in the city at a restaurant on the Upper West Side called Telepan.

I really didn’t know what to expect. I’ve been out of the city for so long, I have lost all pretense of knowing what’s cool or sophisticated or knowing what’s going on in Manhattan foodie world. So I show up at this restaurant, wearing a “chic” OP flannel shirt from Walmart and my customary green vest.  I looked like my usual hapless, country bumpkin self while the restaurant was, to my surprise,  fancy and gourmet (but cozy and warm).  Great, I thought, why don’t I just wear a pair of overalls?

I arrived at the restaurant a bit early–it was a few minutes before 5 and the restaurant hadn’t officially opened. A well-dressed couple was standing outside the front door.  The three of us stood outside  making idle chit chat for a moment or two before the doors were unlocked. The couple dressed and talked like they could be art dealers or architects or any number of glamorous professions. They were energetic and witty and looked like they probably lived on Central Park West.

Then chef and owner Bill Telepan — who I quickly gleaned is a household name in the farm-to-table foodie world and who has been written up in everything from the New York Times, Bon Appetit, Wine Spectator, Food & Wine — came out  and warmly greeted the couple, like the three of them were old friends.  (Bill Telepan is also very handsome. I could see him having his own show on the Food Network, or something.)

Well, you know what happens next: The couple turned out to be Mike and Jan from Paisley Farms! This incredibly sophisticated, well-dressed and worldly twosome standing next to me WERE FARMERS.

We were ushered into the restaurant and took a seat at the bar.  Turns out Mike and Jan have been supplying some of NYC’s finest restaurants — I’m talking Blue Hill, Gramercy Tavern, Telepan-level good restaurants — with farm fresh produce for the past 20 years.  That Kelly is already a member of this esteeemed tribe bodes well for her business (and, ahem, our book).

Jan and Mike must be quite good friends with Mr. Telepan because he kept sending all sorts of yummy dishes out of the kitchen for us to peruse — tart beet salads, smoked trout, an incredible bacon and egg-type appetizer and roast squab — I felt like a food writer for the Times, or something…. a food writer who dressed like a lumberjack.

As I conducted what turned out to be a very engaging interview (they’re ramp experts!), I registered that Mike and Jan are living proof that farming has truly entered a new realm of cache, one not seen since….when….Jeffersonian times? It was so nice to see with my own eyes that farmers are no longer treated like periphereal players even at the highest echelons of the culinary landscape.

It must be nice to go out to dinner in Manhattan when you’re Jan and Mike — they were treated like rock stars.  That standard will surely trickle down from here.

Is that a deer leg in your pocket or are you just happy to see me?

Thursday, October 22nd, 2009

My husband came home from riding his motorcycle with a 25-pound leg of venison sticking out of his courier bag.

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It was already dressed and wrapped and ready for the freezer.

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The real puzzler is: What does one do with a LEG OF VENISON?  Maybe I’m looking at this wrong, but it doesn’t sound like good eating to me. I’d put it more in the road kill family.

That old chestnut

Thursday, September 24th, 2009

Sometimes I feel like my yard really is the Garden of Eden. Every time I turn around, there’s another plant or tree or shrub sprouting food I didn’t know was there.

The latest example: Chestnuts. We’ve lived here for a handful of years now, and only yesterday it dawned on us that we should probably harvest the nuts littering the ground beneath the two giant Chinese chestnut trees in our yard.

A chestnut peaks from its razor sharp, cactus-like shell. The shell HURTS!!!

A chestnut peaks from its razor sharp, cactus-like shell. The shell HURTS!!!

Luckily for my fingers, chestnuts seem to birth their way from their protective shells on their own....aided by nut-loving squirrels, of course.

Luckily for my fingers, chestnuts seem to birth their way from their protective shells on their own....aided by nut-loving squirrels, of course.

Last night's haul. I've never eaten chestnuts so I'm not exactly sure what to do with them. Any suggestions?

Last night's haul. I've never eaten chestnuts so I'm not exactly sure what to do with them. Any suggestions?

They taste, uh, nutty, but I notice the texture is a little more moist than nuts I'm used to eating. I wonder if I have to let them dry out for awhile first?

They taste, uh, nutty, but I notice the texture is a little more moist than nuts I'm used to eating. I wonder if I have to let them dry out for awhile first?

Say hello to the Aussie burger

Thursday, September 24th, 2009

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In honor of our Australian friend Paul, and my other Aussie friend Camilla, Jake and I have been wolfing Down Under-style burgers for the last two nights in a row.

From bottom to top, the ingredients in an Aussie burger are:

- Bun

- Hamburger pattie

- Fried egg  (our chickens aren’t laying yet so we had to use a smaller duck egg, which tastes more or less the same)

- Grilled pineapple ring

- Tomato

- Pickled beets

- A generous dollop of fiery sauce made from ketchup, mayo and Thai curry paste

- Bun

These things are SO FREAKIN’ DELICIOUS  I’m debating making them AGAIN tonight.

It’s like every meal of the day in one sitting.

Tomatillos: The “hot veggie” of summer 2010?

Thursday, August 27th, 2009

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I love tomatillos for four primary reasons:

Number one, it’s always  the last thing to be harvested in my spring/summer garden. These things like to take their sweet time growing. Sort of like the favorite friend who always shows up late to your party because she took so long getting ready?  But you like her so much you’re glad she showed up at all? That’s how I feel about tomatillos.

Number two, it’s the basis of all Mexican salsa verde, and I love salsa verde. I’m gearing up to can some this evening.

Number three, it’s one of the only vegetable plants I can think of — aside from asparagus and rhubarb — that is A PERENNIAL. You plant it once and it grows anew every year.  Can’t say the same for those blasted tomatoes!! Speaking of tomatoes….

Number four, they’re just as juicy (if not a little more tart) than tomatoes, so they could work as an acceptable substitute in many tomato-based dishes, considering the crazy tomato blight that wiped out my tomato crop this year!

So I wonder why more people don’t grow tomatillos?  I, for one, plan to triple my crop next year.

In fact, I’m calling it right now:  Because of the blight, watch tomatillos become “the hot veggie” of summer 2010…or heck, September 2009!  I can see the New York Times Food&Wine cover story now. You heard it here first.


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